Last week we were invited to join our precious friends and head out of town on a camping trip.
Destination: BEYOND KENNEDY MEADOWS.
In 2008 we visited Yosemite National Park, and had an amazing time. Almost exact to the day, this year we headed up the 15 interstate across the desert into the south Sierra Nevada Mountains. Having just about reached the end of summer I can honestly say that having a vehicle with good air conditioning is an absolute must if you are going to travel across the desert.
Of course we have camped often back in Zimbabwe, in the Matopos Game park, as well as Hwange National Park and on the farm in Nyamandlovu, but there is something to be said when you are camping out in the open in surroundings that you are not entirely familiar with. There is a vast contrast between the outdoors in Africa and that of USA. Having never camped out before, this trip was a reminder of how amazing an experience can be had admiring God’s amazing creation.
Reaching Pearsonville you soon make a left turn and begin climbing up the hill – well mountain really. A nice steep climb on a single lane road without barriers makes for a slight adrenalin rush…the thought of ‘what if…‘ definitely crossed my mind a few times.
We climbed to the crest of the mountain and then headed towards what would become the last real place of known civilization. You know, the bare necessities of life, such as fresh treated running water, bathroom, and shower facilities…soft comfortable beds, warm blankets, and central heating and cooling. Our destination lay ahead of us, in a place where few people have traveled. Even looking on a regular map you won’t find the spots we came across.
At the altitude of 8150 feet we reached Blackrock Ranger station. The sun was high, and it was hot. Glenn filled our water canteen with enough spring water to last us the duration of our stay, I must admit that I have yet to taste such delicious water! Untreated and directly sourced from a spring in the hills. In addition to the last known place to collect fresh water, we took advantage of the outhouses that would soon become a figment of our imagination. Heading higher still, the road ended and Glenn engaged the 4 wheel drive on his Yukon, the next 30 miles would be an interesting hair raising experience. Nancy was hugging a pillow, Toni was a little anxious, and while Glenn took it in his stride, I managed to grip a little harder on the door rest a few times.
The views we came across were simply breath taking and stunning. Being high up in the mountains, and looking at God’s handy work was amazing. The meadows, the trees, the peaks beyond where we were going were astonishingly beautiful. On our way to the camp site, we can across some deer, browsing in the late afternoon, they didn’t seem particularly concerned by our presence, my guess is they knew it wasn’t hunting season!
Setting up camp was fun! We found a beautiful spot, right at the end of the road, where no vehicles had gone before, next to the stream, on level ground with a fire pit. What more could we have asked for? We made haste in setting up the tents, and getting adjusted before nightfall, considering the fact that we were wedged between two rock faces, we needed to take advantage of the remaining daylight to get a fire going, and a bite to eat. During one of our many chats, Glenn reminded us that this is “brown bear and mountain lion” country. This for me added a new level of excitement, whilst I know for the ladies the same excitement was not shared at all. Fortunately we were protected, and in the event of an encounter, as has been famously said before, my only concern would be to out run everyone else!
Looking at the stream, I could barely wait to fish and see what I could catch. I have to be honest and say that I am by no means a fisherman, and had it not been for the expert attention and advice of Glenn, had we relied on my abilities to catch dinner, starvation would have the best of us. Most of the streams at that altitude have two types of trout, German Brown and the Golden. The German is not native to this area, and grows larger than the Golden and feeds off the Golden. So a few ponds were created to stop the rogue trout from swimming up stream and destroying the native Golden. They have been known to jump as high as 6 – 8 feet to go upstream!
Glenn took me through a crash course on how to fish in these shallow waters, noting that the streams had never been this low since he has been going up there. In some places it was less than a foot deep, which made for difficult fishing. I had no idea that trout were so easily spooked. The skill required for catching fish in these conditions is nothing short of an art. No shadows on the water. No talking. No stomping of feet on the ground. Don’t wear white. Hook your night crawler in such a way that the barb isn’t visible. Cast up stream and let your line out enough to allow your bait to find it’s way into the holes where the trout hide. Needless to say along the hike up stream there were plenty perfect spots to fish and I did manage to catch a few trout, and a number of them ‘got away’. Glenn on the other hand being an avid fisherman set about catching trout where I didn’t think it possible to catch. It was actually pleasant watching a professional at work.
Who would have thought it possible to shower at an elevation of 8600 feet in the middle of nowhere with a home made shower facility? Nothing like filling a thermal bag with fresh stream water, setting it out on a rock for the day to warm up sufficiently to provide a tepid shower. This added to the adventure of being in the wild, and camping under the stars. As to the use of the bathroom, I encourage you to use your imagination.
Breathing in the air at that altitude was fresh, and required some acclimatization. The first night was bit rough, but we soon settled into a routine. I can’t remember when last I was in bed before 9pm and awake at 5.30am – somehow it felt right, and restful. During the night, it was amazing what games the mind would play. Every sound was exaggerated…’is it a bear…or mountain lion?…I hope it’s a bear because one swipe of his paw and I won’t feel much, but the lion – he won’t be as friendly, and will want to drag me up the rock face’. Bizarre thoughts, quite random but disturbing enough to cause concern. Until we came across a camper who has been heading to that same spot for the past 20 years and confidently told us he had never seen any bears or mountain lion up there….only their tracks. There is always a first time right?
Saturday night dinner was out of this world. A variety of fresh caught trout, marinated steak, coal baked potatoes, coal baked butternut squash and corn on the cob. It was a feast! There are times when even a high resolution picture cannot do justice to the aroma, the sight and the flavor of a meal. We ate, we enjoyed, we finished everything that had been prepared, totally delicious.
Sunday came far too quick. It felt as if we had only arrived, and yet it was time to break down camp, pack up and begin the arduous drive back home. Along the way we stopped at a few meadows, to take in the beauty. We saw the Aspen trees changing color, the leaves stood out beautifully. We came across many range cows, unfriendly, wary of humans, in excellent condition. I don’t blame them for being wary, they are after all in dangerous territory. We managed to collect a few branches of Aspen for Tammy’s pet, they love Aspen…and as I sit here, he is basking under the heat lamp on a branch.
Heading home we listened to Cd’s and chatted about the weekend away. It was really an amazing time in nature, and we were just grateful that Glenn and Toni invited us along, we had fun! Along the road on the way home, in the middle of nowhere, I spotted a road sign that looked familiar. I could hardly believe my eyes. It read “Johannesburg” and under that San Bernadino – how odd, that a South African city name would end up in the desert of California – my guess is that it is a small gold mining community.
A few times while Glenn and I were fishing, I would sit down, and listen to the stream beneath me, I would look into the woods, and see giant trees, and brush, upward I would gaze on the most pristine blue sky, and I couldn’t help but think how amazing God is to have made the earth such a marvelous place for us to live in preparation for His return. At night we would share, and end the day in prayer, and it really felt wonderful being in relationship and community with fellow believers. The Psalms really came alive on this trip, in the middle of nowhere, it was easier to grasp the heart of David in all his triumphs and defeats, praise and worship unto the Lord.
God truly is amazing!